I’m now putting in the brake lines, I spent some frustrating time trying to double flare the lines with a double flaring tool borrowed from Autozone’s rent a tools program. Do yourself a favor and don’t bother with it. 8-24 connectors, and some adapters and you’ll be a much happier person. Here’s what you need depending on your setup. Brakes Part 1: click here Question: Is it a must to have a proportioning valve when using a manual 84 mustang master cylinder and rear disc brakes? If you are running discs in the rear you don’t need and valve. But I recommend the Wilwood adjustable inline valve in the rear line so you can change the brake bias. I haven’t found any need for the proportioning valve. If you have cut your pedal, you will find a little more pedal travel than you would like to have, but other than that, no problems. I could really be wrong on this but don’t you need some residual pressure in the lines of like 3-4lbs on the rear discs so they react positively like the front discs? There are two lines of thought.
1994 Roadster from a 4wd system. Others seem to be having good luck with the 84 Jeep from a 2wd system. 85 for a new bendix 94 Roadster unit. Personally I bought the Roadster unit. Do not have it installed yet. Inman and others swear by the jeep. Should I not shorten my brake pedal if I use the 84 mustang master cylinder? I ever read on the brake subject says to shorten your brake pedal regardless of what other setup you have. A few folks have reported that they had good brakes with out it.
I don’t actually ever remember someone saying their brakes were too sensitive. I remember reading somewhere that residual valves were only needed if your MC was below any of your brake lines. I have disc all around a 84 MC with a adjustable prop valve in the rear line. In my case I found more bias to the rears helped then without it. I’m told if you do a lot of racing on different tracks it helps to be able to change to the varying conditions track to track. If you run power brakes, such as with the hydrobooster, you do not need to modify the brake pedal. I just got back from the junk yard. I got a very clean aluminum master cylinder for almost nothing. The 84 jeep unit we have talked of so many times is a huge, iron, ugly thing.
And, it has the connections on the correct side. If yours is pretty and aluminum, you do not have the one. What is the stroke and are the connections on the correct side? It looks just like the 84 mustang cylinder but its aluminum and a little bigger. The connections ARE on the right side. 16″ and has the brake lines on the correct side. Its a good bit bigger than the 84 mustang master cylinder but its made of aluminum so its about the same weight.
Now I just have to make myself remove the master cylinder that’s on the car now. I just hate getting that brake fluid ever were, and bleeding that brakes. 95 spindles from either V6 or V8 cars. You can send back ‘ANY’ two mustang calipers for the core charge. This is the cheapest and most bang for the buck you can get! For the rear you need to include Richard Oben’s brackets for using Roadster rear brakes. Remember to state that the caliper is the same on Roadsters as wheel as gt’s. The rotor must be from a Roadster. 95 spindles from MPS or your local junkyard. Order the Roadster Caliper kit and rotors from discbrakesrus.